Interestingly enough, a thermometer is not part of the Land Rover Defender’s standard configuration. For mere safety reasons, the VDO outside temperature gauge (part number: VDO 397-035-001C) was thus one of the first features I have fitted earlier this year.
Initially, I had placed the temperature probe behind the horn vent and above the front indicator lamp. But this proved to be ineffective as the temperature readings were always a bit inaccurate. Today I have moved the sensor into the front wheel arch. This should do the job!
Update: I have used this (very expensive) temperature gauge for about a year now and so far it works reasonably well. However, the temperature readings are sometimes a little too high due to the close proximity to the tarmac. You can easily reach temperatures above 40 degrees, which exceeds the measurement range. Also, the gauge is losing a bit of paint already. Considering this as well as the price and limited measurement range, I would not buy it again.
Samson has got new tinted windows in the second and third row for more privacy. As we all know, the original Land Rover sliding windows are quite flimsy and leaky. And for a camper van, you really want to either apply a tinted window film or replace the OEM glass altogether.
I have finally found the time to install the following products from Explore Glazing, which I would like to review here in detail:
Aftermarket glass (for the second row on both sides)
Sliding window (for the rear passenger side)
Expedition window (also known as “gullwing” for the rear driver side)
Explore Overlander Light (a hinged table and window protection with the possibility to attach recovery tracks or other equipment with a maximum load of 35 kg)
(All windows are equipped with safety glass in parsol gray and with 20% light transmission.)
I started off by cutting out and replacing the original sliding windows, which took several hours and unfortunately left a few tiny scratches in the paint. The process itself was relatively straightforward thanks to the video instructions and the included mounting kit. I particularly liked the professional tools that Explore Glazing included (e.g. the machine screw tap by Würth). Attaching the Explore Overlander was equally simple, which I finished two days later when the silicon sealant had hardened sufficiently.
By contrast, fitting the aftermarket glass was a pain in the ass. First of all, there were no instructions, so I had to follow the – sometimes really vague – steps in the Haynes Owner’s Workshop Manual. Second, after the entire door was stripped naked, I realized that Explore Glazing had not included any glass holder clips (STC4787). As you can’t do anything without them, I needed to order them from Britpart before continuing the process upon delivery four days later.
So far, I’m really happy with the results and the quality of the products. Let’s see how they stand the test over the coming months. Explore Glazing certainly provides amazing value for money, and so far I would always purchase again. I have already mounted two Maxtrax MKII recovery boards to the airline rails, which worked just fine. However, there are a few downsides and suggestions for improvement:
The expedition window can only be (un-)locked and opened from the outside, which is a big surprise to me. Explore Glazing might want to redesign the latching mechanism, or at least highlight this limitation on their website.
As mentioned above, it would be helpful to include installation instructions and glass holder clips for the aftermarket glass.
The fastening strap for the Explore Overlander does not look very firm because the hooks do not fully snap into the corresponding holes in the table. Unfortunately, the straps also need to be removed when folding up the table. Here I will probably need to invent something else myself.
A very minor, yet odd looking thing: the glass markings (featuring the Explore Glazing logo, URL and window class codes) do not always face in the same direction. Sometimes the markings face inwards, i.e. they are mirrored, right next to one facing outwards.
After many moons of hard work, I have completed what some might call the mother of all center consoles (also known as cubby box). Let’s be honest. The original Land Rover cubby box sucks big time — it looks odd and clunky, and simply is not very practical with its abyssal geometry. Whatever junk you put inside, it will disappear forever. So after deciding to place my subwoofer and auxiliary heating between the front seats, it was quite clear that a new cubby box would need to be constructed around it. Here’s what I have done, and how.
Initial thoughts and sketches
Generally, I designed the cubby box to enclose a Diesel heater (Eberspächer S2 D2L Airtronic) and a compact subwoofer with 2-channel amplifier (Focal IBUS 2.1). The box should remit low frequency sound from the subwoofer, insulate against noise from the heater, but also allow both intake and hot air to pass through safely. It should feature a cupholder, a front panel for six illuminated switches (incl. dual battery voltmeter), a twin USB socket for charging accessories, and as much storage space as possible with LED illumination when opening the lid, of course. The cubby box should be lightweight yet still durable, and somewhat ergonomic with a soft touch and comfy armrest.
First quick-and-dirty cardboard prototype to take exact measure
Mounting the base plate
I started off by attaching the heater and subwoofer to a high-grade steel mounting plate (thanks to Metall Werk Zürich for punching additional holes). The subwoofer, however, needed to be fixed on a metal frame that would ever so slightly hover across the crossmember behind the front seats. It was a matter of millimetres, otherwise the envisioned geometry would collide with the shift lever. Ultimately, I placed four corner brackets with M6 blind rivets on the plate to fasten the box later on.
We have a match! The two devices sit tight on top of the mounting plate
Let’s play carpenter
The woodwork was the most time-consuming part. It literally took me months to complete the box, basically because I lacked the time, experience and right tools. After setting up a workshop for myself in the basement and several prototypes later, I learned a lot about wood and screws, and how to saw straight lines, to cut holes, channels and round pockets with a router, to trim and smoothen edges with a grinder, etc. etc. etc.
Anyways, I finally used birch plywood for everything (9mm for the corpus, 12mm for the lid). The box is one solid, partitioned block that can simply be imposed on the heater and subwoofer, yet with removable trays and a removable front cover (where the switch panel and cupholder would go). There are two storage compartments: a really flat one on the driver’s side that can only hold thin items like a mobile phone, and a deeper one on the passenger side.
Upholstering and putting it all together
Now it was time to cover the box with an acoustic fabric (using an extra strong spray adhesive), and the wooden inserts with anti-slip rubber. I glued in an LED strip with a reed switch and a USB socket, and then wired it all up. The lid is covered with genuine buff leather (this I had done professionally by Andrea Ramseyer at Sattlerei Zürich). I added Southco E6 torque position control hinges and a fancy Southco M1 flush pull latch. A rubber pad (ø 75mm) fits into the circular pocket as a cupholder, next to the Carling switch panel. Ultimately, I placed the cubby box in the car and fastened it to the base plate. Everything sits flush, great!
I have to say that I’m absolutely excited about the result! Let me know if you wish to see additional pictures, or have questions about the materials and parts used in the project.
The cubby box is finally mounted in the vehicle and fully functional
Where to sleep in an off-road camper van? That is probably the first and single most important question to address when starting your conversion project. With a Land Rover Defender, there are basically three options: you can sleep inside on a bunk, in a roof top tent, or inside a pop-up roof. A trailer or pop-up camper (this works only for 130 models with a single or crew cab) is also a possibility, but out of question for me and not discussed here.
Sleeping in the back
Sleeping in the back of your vehicle is certainly the safest and stealthiest option. You are not exposed to the elements, an air heater will keep you warm, and hardly anyone will notice you. Building a decent-sized bunk will most probably be a major compromise though, because you will sacrifice a lot of valuable storage and living space. Frankly, although this might work occasionally and for shorter trips, I therefore doubt that this is an ideal solution for long-term adventures.
Sleeping in a roof top tent
A roof top tent is the most spacious (depending on the model) and the most flexible solution. You simply mount the tent before going on a trip, and otherwise store it in your garage or basement. The main downsides are safety (you need to exit the vehicle and climb up a ladder to access your tent, which leaves you exposed to unwanted guests) and reduced payload (roof top tents eat up a notable amount of rack space). Also, roof top tents might collapse when the wind is too strong.
Sleeping inside a pop-up roof
Pop-up roofs might be seen as the combination of both worlds. They are relatively spacious and have one unique advantage: you will be able to stand up in the back of your vehicle. However, pop-up roofs are a permanent solution affecting the looks of your vehicle, and they are certainly not cheap either. As strong wind and rain might be an issue here too, having an emergency bunk in the vehicle is a good idea.
Samson is getting a pop-up roof
Weighing up all the pros and cons, the pop-up roof is my preferred choice. On one hand, it is important to me to retain a lot of storage space inside the car and particularly on the roof. On the other, I have no possibility to store a roof top tent anywhere in my house when it’s not used. And I would definitely not want to leave it mounted on the car all the time.
Ex-Tec, a German specialist for off-road equipment and adventure vehicles, has a long history in building quality pop-up roofs for the Defender 110. They also manufacture compatible add-ons such as bed systems, awnings, ladders etc. Their Space-Tec product has been around for some 20 years and it is, in my opinion, the best and “most evolved” pop-up roof on the market. Unlike others, Ex-Tec uses the factory roof-shell that comes with the Land Rover instead of replacing it for something else, and so preserves most of the car’s original look.
Samson is visibly enjoying his pop-up roof conversion in Germany. He will be shipped back to Switzerland in the coming weeks. Much more details and a “field report” will follow soon.
Every life goal evolves around a vague and abstract dream, which begins to materialise when the passion is strong enough and particularly when the achievement of this goal is put into a workable plan.
One of my life goals is to explore different parts of the world in an off-road camper van for some time – North and South America, parts of Sub-Saharan Africa or even Oceania. I could also see myself driving all the way to Japan, my former home, by way of Central Asia. In the beginning, however, I would focus on destinations in Europe, such as the Nordic or Mediterranean countries.
When this dream hit me, it did not take me long to purchase a suitable vehicle – a Land Rover Defender (see here for details) – and to research as much as I could about camper van conversions. Now that I’m ready to begin with the hard work, it’s time to make a first plan for myself. Let’s start!
One of the first modifications to my vehicle, I replaced the OEM stereo with the large Kenwood DMX8019DABS mechless unit, primarily to be used with Apple CarPlay to run Google Maps and Spotify. I also installed a simple Parkvision backup camera, which turns on when switching to reverse gear, and replaced the factory fascia with a Double-DIN one, which literally took days to complete.
Pros:
Large 7″ touch screen
Support for wireless Apple CarPlay and Android Auto
Video input, e.g. for backup camera
Cons:
Horrible and ridiculous user interface (hardware and software not well thought-out)
Annoying warning message during start-up (cannot be removed 👎)
Google Maps (other navigation apps?) do not automatically switch between day and night colors
Update after two years in action: Would I buy the Kenwood DMX8019DABS again? Frankly, no. The device feels like a cheap hack due to the above drawbacks. Also, installing the Double-DIN fascia was insane (not to mention its hefty price tag). Next time I would probably simply use a slim stereo that supports Bluetooth and run navigation and streaming apps as well as the backup camera on a tablet computer.
